Shoe sewing machine



Nov. 5, 1940. A R. MORRILL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 1, 1937 l2Sheets- Sheet 1 Nov. 5, I940.

A. R. MQRRILL s'HoE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 1, 1937 12 Sheets-Sheet 2Nov. 5, 1940. A. R. MORRILL SHOE SEWING MACHINE m April 1, 19:1

12 Sheets-Sheet 3 Nov. 5, 1940.

- A. R. MORRILL 2,2 0, 12

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 1. 1931 12 Sheets-Sheet 4 NOV. 5, 1940.R MQRRILL 2,220,112

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 1. 19:51 12 Sheets-Sheet 5 I a v I/////////////A IV////////A 178 I" W/ml/A I" i \Wmsmmm /////,I:V/////% qNov. 5, 1940.

' A. R. MORRILL v SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 1. 1951 12Sheets-Sheet e I l I Nov. 5; 1940.

A. R. MORRILL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 1. 19s"! 12 Shgeis-Shet 7Nov. 5, 1940.

' A. RJHMORRILL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 1, 1931' 12 Sheets-Sheeta Nov. 5, 1940. A R. MORRILL 2,220,112

snon sauna upcnfxa Filed April 1. i951 12 Sheet-Shet 9 A R. iMORRILL 2,1 I san swine mean;

12 Sheets-Sheet 10 Find April 1. 1931' 1940- "A R. MORRILL snon salinencamn Filed April 1. 1937 12 Shoefs-Shet 11 v 1940- A. R. MORRILL.2,220,112

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Fil ed Apri1' l, 1937 ,12 Sheets-Sheet l2 PatentedNov. 5, 1940 PATENT OFFICE SHOE SEWING MACHINE Alfred B. Morrill,Beverly, Mass-, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Boroughsay of Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jer- Application April 1,1937, Serial No. 134,319

13 Claims;

The present invention relates to inseam shoe ,sewing machines, and isherein shown as embodied in'a curved hook needle chainstitch machinesimilar in many respects to the machines disclosed in applicant's priorPatents No. 1,971 ,575 dated August 28, 1934, and No. 2,041,945 datedMay 26, 1936.

An object of the present invention is to provide a welt inseam shoesewing machine having improved and simplified means for handling andcontrolling the thread and welt at the beginning and end of the inseamsewing operation.

Other objects of the invention .are, in general, to improve theconstruction and mode of operation of the various parts of the inseamshoe sewing machines, as will hereinafter appear.

With the above objects in view, a feature of the present inventioncontemplates utilizing the welt cutting and gripping devices of themachine to grip and cut the thread, whereby the machine is provided withan eflicient thread cutting and holding mechanism without the additionto the machine of any extra parts. To this end a welt cutting andgripping mechanism has been provided comprising welt gripping jaws whichare arranged so as to be movable towards the shoe at the completion ofthe seam and' receive be-' tween them both the welt and the thread,together with means for closing the jaws to clamp the welt between themand to clamp thethread against the welt. The welt cutting and grippingmechanism also comprises a welt severing knife and, in the constructionhereinafter described, this knife acts to sever both the welt and thethread while clamped between the jaws. By utilizing the welt gripping-and severing devices also to cut the thread, not only is a simple andeffective thread cutting mechanism provided, but the thread is cut closeto the end of the seam so that no trimming of the thread end, as aseparate operation, is required during the maufacture of the shoe. Inthe mechanism hereinafter described, the welt and thread gripping jawsremain in engagement with the welt and thread until the seam on the nextshoe has been started, and thus the seam is started close to the end ofthe Welt and thread so that also, at the beginning of the seam, there isno loose thread end projecting from the shoe requiring a subsequentthread trimming operation.

As regards the novel features of the welt and thread gripping andsevering devices, above referred to, it is to be noted that the featureof after specifically described. It is also to be understood that theseveral novel features of the welt and thread gripping and severingdevices are not limited to any particular construction and arrangementof parts, or to use in any par- 1 ticular combination except as suchlimitations are clearly expressed in the claims.

A feature of the present invention relates to an improved constructionand arrangement of parts for actuating and controlling the weltmeasuring devices by which the amount of welt drawn through the weltguide at the completion of the sewing operation is determined. .Thisfeature of the invention contemplates the provision of novel andimproved devices actuated from the sewing cam shaft on stopping themachine, as will be hereinafter described.

Another feature of the invention relating to the welt gripping andcutting devices contemplates the provision of novel and improved meansfor controlling the operation of the welt gripping and cutting devicesat the beginning and end of the sewing operation. In welt sewingmachines provided with welt gripping and severing devices,

it is the usual practice to so control the operation of the weltgripping jaws that the gripping jaws remain in engagement with the weltuntil the seam on thenext shoe has been started. It

is often'desirable to cause the gripping jaws to 40 be retracted withoutthrowing the machine into operation, and a feature of the presentinvention is embodied in an improved means for accomplishing thisresult. Under certain conditions, as will be hereinafter described, theseam on a new shoe can be started in a satisfactory manner andmore'conveniently without the use of a welt gripping device and,accordingly, a feature of the present invention is embodied in aconstruction, hereinafter described and claimed, which permits the weltgripping jaws to have either of two alternative modes of operation; inone case, remaining in engagement with the welt until the operation onthe next shoe is started,

It also is to be understood that the 5 and in the other case, returningto their retracted position immediately upon severing the welt.

In accordance with another feature relating to the welt gripping andcutting devices, hereinafter described, the welt cutter is given amovement beyond the gripping jaws towards the shoe in order to sever thewelt with certainty and is then retracted so as to prevent injury to theshoe during its feeding movement while the gripper remains in grippingengagement with the welt. Another feature relating to the welt grippingand cutting mechanism contemplates the provision of a yielding pivot forone of the gripping jaws in order to permit the jaws to betteraccommodate themselves to different thicknesses of welt.

Welt and thread gripping and cutting devices embodying the features ofthe present invention are peculiarly adapted for use in chainstitchmachines in which the chain of the inseam is laid in the channel insteadof upon the welt and, accordingly, these features of invention have beenillustrated as embodied in such a machine, the machine, except ashereinafter described, being the same in all essential parts as themachine disclosed in applicant's prior Patent No. 2,041,945 hereinbeforereferred to. These features are not claimed herein but form thesubject-matter of divisional applications Serial Nos.- 316,385 and316,386, filed January 30, 1940.

The features of.the present invention, above referred to, and othernovel constructions, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafterdescribed and claimed will be apparent to those skilled in the art fromthe following description, taken in. connection with the accompanyingdrawings which illustrate a welt shoe sewing machine provided withspecific embodiments of the several features of the invention.

40 Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a view in side elevation ofthe head of the machine;

Figure 2 is a plan view with a portion of the casing broken away to showunderlying parts;

Figure 3 is a view. in sectional elevation of a 45portion of the machineillustrating particularly the mechanism associated with the cam shaft;

Figure 4 is a detail sectional view illustrating a portion of themechanism for actuating the welt gripper of the welt measuringmechanism; Figure 5 is a detail sectional plan view with portions of theframe broken away; Figure 6 is a detail vertical sectional view, takenon the line 6-45 of Figure 1, illustrating particularly the carriagesfor the needle and awl; Figure 7 is a detail sectional plan view, takenon the line 'l'! of Figure 6; Figure 8 is a detail cross sectional view,taken on the line 8-8 of Figure 6; Figure 9 is a detail view in sideelevation of the stitch-forming, work feeding and welt and threadhandling devices adjacent the sewing point, illustrating the position ofthe parts at the start of the sewing operation; Figures 10, 11 and 12are views similar to Figure 9, with the machine frame and needle and awlcarriages omitted, illustrating the position assumed by the stitchforming, work feeding and welt and thread handling devices at diflerentpoints in the cycle of operations; Figure 13 is a detail view in frontelevation of certain of the parts illustrated in Figure 11; Figures 14to 21 inclusive are somewhat diagrammatic views, illustrating thepositions assumed by the stitch forming, work feeding, and welt andthread handling devices during the first two cycles of stitch formingoperations; Figure 22 is a detail view, partly in sec- 75 tion, of thewelt and thread gripping jaws, the

welt and thread severing knife, and their actuating slides; Figure 23 isa plan view of the parts illustrated in Figure 22; Figure 24 is a viewsimilar to Figure 22, on a somewhat enlarged scale, with the parts inthe position after the gripping jaws have been advanced towards theshoe; Figure 25 is a view similar to Figure 24, illustrating thegripping jaws in closed position and the knife advanced beyond the endof the jaws; Figures 26 and 27 are cross sectional views,

taken respectively on the lines 26-2B and 21-21 of Figure 25; Figure 28is a detail plan view of the gripping jaws and knife in the positionshown in Figure 25; Figure 29 is a view in front elevation of the partsillustrated in Figure 28; Figure 30 is a detail cross sectional view,illustrating particularly the mechanism for controlling the operation ofthe welt and thread cutting devices; Figure 31 is a detail plan view ofcertain of the parts illustrated in Figure 30; Figure 32 is a detailsectional view, taken on the line 32 of Figure 31; Figure 33 is a detailview, illustrating, in side elevation, the mechanism for controlling thethread tension during the first stitch forming cycle; Figure 34 is adetail sectional view, illustrating particularly a portion of theconnections through which the welt gripping jaw of the welt measuringmechanism is actuated from the stop lever of the machine; Figure 35 is adetail view illustrating a portion of the mechanisms for locking andunlocking the welt guide and work rest; and Figures 36 and 37 are detailsectional views, looking in opposite directions, of the mechanism forseparating the needle from the awl upon stopping the machine.

Except as hereinafter pointed out, the various parts of the machineillustrated in the drawings are constructed, arranged and operated as inthe machine of applicants prior Patent No. 2,041,945. The machine isprovided with a curved hook needle 2, arranged to enter the work fromthe channel side, a curved awl 4 entering the work from the welt side, athread finger 6, a looper 8, and a take-up It). Work piercing andretracting movements are imparted to the needle and awl, and threadhandling movements are imparted to the thread finger, looper, andtake-up from the cam shaft l2 through connections which are the same asthose embodied in the machine of applicants prior Patent No. 2,041,945and, consequently, will not be described herein. The machine is alsoprovided with a work rest and a welt guide constructed, arranged andactuated as in the machine of applicants prior Patent No. 2,041,945,with the exception that a separate cam lever is provided for actuatingthe locking pawl of the welt guide mechanism and is arranged to engagean. arm projecting from one of the rear supporting links of the weltguide carrier. This welt guide locking mechanism is best shown in Figure35, the cam actuated pawl carrying lever being indicated at l3, thelocking pawl at l5, and the arm projecting upwardly from one of the rearsupporting links of the welt guide carrier and provided at its upper endwith teeth I! cooperating with the pawl l5 being indicated at IS.

The driving and stopping mechanism of the machine illustrated in thedrawings is also the same as that embodied in the machine of ap plicantsprior Patent No. 2,041,945 comprising a high speed treadle controlledclutch for driving the cam shaft from the vertical shaft it through thespiral gears l6 and I8 and an automatically controlled reversely drivenslow speed clutch, the driving member of which is formed in a gear 20loosely mounted on the cam shaft. The driven member of the slow speedclutch is indicated at 22. moved into and out of engagement with thedriven member of the clutch in stopping the machine is indicated at 24.The bell crank which is vibrated by the cam while the machine is inoperation and which is locked against movement when the machine is to bestopped, is indicated at 26. The yieldingly mounted slide which carriesthe locking pin is indicated at 28 and the locking pin which iscontrolled through connections to the starting and stopping treadle isindicated at 30. The gear 20 of the slow speed reverse driving andstopping clutch is continuously driven as in the machine of applicant'sprior patent, and through a similar train of connections actuates thewelt severing mechanism, these connections including a gear 32 meshingwith the gear 20 and mounted on a shaft 34, an eccentric 36 fast on theshaft 34 and driven from the gear 32 through a Horton clutch, the rollcarrying ring of which is indicated at 38, an eccentric strap 40, anoscillating gear segment 42 driven from the eccentric strap, and apinion on a shaft 44 meshing with the gear segment. These connections inthe construction illustrated in the drawings (see particu- No.2,041,945, the stop arm (see more particularly Figure 34) beingindicated at 46, thefollower at the outer end of the arm being indicatedat 40 48, and the cam slot in a cam disk 49 on the cam shaft l2 which isengaged by the follower during the reverse rotation of the cam shaft instopping the machine being indicated at 50. The stop arm 46, throughconnections substantially the same as those embodied in the machine ofapplicant's prior Patent No. 2,041,945, retracts the welt guide as themachine stops and also moves the devices which look the welt grippingand cutting mechanism out of operation while the machine is running to aposition which permits the welt gripping and cutting mechanism to bethrown into operation by a pull on the welt.

Coming now to the illustrated embodiment of the features of theinvention relating to devices for handling and controlling the welt-andthread at the beginning and end of the inseam sewing operation, theillustrated -machine is provided with welt gripping and severing deviceswhichare arranged not only to grip and sever the welt, but

60 also to grip and sever the thread 'and to retain a grip on the weltand thread until the seam on the next shoe has been started. The weltsevering and gripping devices (see more particularly Figures 22 to 29)comprise welt and thread gripping dicated at 80, extending lengthwise ofthe grip- The timing cam by which. it is ping jawr This arrangement ofthe teeth insures a firm grip on the welt while the welt is beingsevered, and holds the thread securely during the formation of the firststitch until released by the opening of the jaws. The welt and threadgripping and severing devices also comprise a welt and thread severingknife, indicated at 62, which,

after the welt and thread have been gripped by the jaws 54 and'52, isarranged to be moved lengthwise of the jaws across the welt and threadclamped by the jaws. In order to insure complete severance of the welt,the knife is moved from its retracted position to a position somewhatbeyond the ends of the jaws, as indicatedin Figures 25 and 28. The 'weltgripping jaws, when thrown into operation at the end of the sewingoperation are moved towards the shoe and remain in their forwardposition close to the shoe during at least a portion of the formation ofthe first stitch. At this time the shoe is being fed through the machineand, in order to avoid possible injury to the shoe by the knife duringthis feeding movement, the mechanism. for, actuating the knife isconstructed and. arranged to retract the knife slightly from its extremeforward position immediately after severing the welt.

The construction for supporting and actuating the gripping jaws and weltsevering knife is quite similar to that used in the machine ofapplicants prior patent and comprises a sliding rack bar 64 to theforward end of which the welt and thread severing knife 62 is secured,and a slide 52 upon the forward end of which the gripping jaws 52 and 54are mounted, the slide and rack bar being mounted to reciprocate in afixed casing 68. The rack bar 64 carrying the severing knife 62 isengaged by a pinion Ill on the shaft 44 and, when moved in one directionacts to advance the jaws into gripping engagement with the welt andthread, and then moves the knife with relation to the jaws to sever thewelt and thread; and when moved in the opposite direction, acts to movethe knife backwardly with relation to the jaws and then to retract thejaws. The connections through which the gripping jaws are actuated fromthe knife carrying slide comprise a locking ball 12 seated in aperforation in one of the walls of the slide 56 which cooperates withlocking recesses in the knife carrying slide 64 and casing 68, a stopprojection in the form of a screw 14 arranged to engage a shoulder 16 onthe casing 68 and a pin 18 arranged to be engaged by the rear end of theknife carrying slide 64. The operation of these connections is fullydescribed in applicant's prior patent.

The gripping jaw 54 is closed upon the welt and thread by the engagementwith its rearwardly extending arm of an inclined surface at the forwardend of the knife carrying slide 64. The jaw 54 is pivotally mounted uponthe slide 56 and, in order to permit the welt engaging surface of thejaw to press evenly on all portions of the welt engaged by the jaw,regardless of the thickness of the welt, and thus insure not only thatthe welt will be firmly gripped, but that the thread will be firmlypressed against the surface of the welt, the pivot of the jaw isyieldingly supported so that, upon engagement with the welt, the jaw canyield bodily to bring'its work engaging surface into substantialparallelism with the surface of the cooperating jaw. In the constructionshown, the jaw 54 is provided with oppositely extending journal studs 80which are received in vertical bearing slots 82 formed in carsprojecting upwardly from the forward end of the slide 56. To hold thejournal studs yieldingly at the lower end of the slots 82. a rod 84 isprovided which extends downwardly from the hub of the gripping jaw 54and a washer 86 is mounted on the rod and is pressed against a curvedsurface of the slide 56 by a spring 88 surrounding the rod andinterposed between the head of the rod and the washer. In order to movethe gripping jaw 54 to open position, a roll 90 is mounted in theforward end of the'fixed casing 68 in position to be engaged by an in-'-clined surface on the rear end of the gripping jaw when the jaws arereturned to their extreme retracted position.

While the machine is in operation, the welt and thread gripping jaws andsevering knife are in retracted position remote from the shoe, asindicated in Figure 5. When thrown into operation after the completionof I the seam, the gripping jaws approach the shoe at an angle to thedirection of feed and grasp the welt between the end of the seam and theneedle. At this time the thread handlingdevices of the machine are atrest and the thread leading from the last stitch to the looper extendsacross the welt and across the path of the gripping jaws. As the jawsclose upon the welt, the thread is clamped against the welt andimmediately the knife is advanced to sever the welt and thread, and isthen retracted sligh ly. The relative position of the gripping jaws,knife, looper, thread finger, needle and awl at this time, is indicatedin Figure 14. The parts remain in this position until a new shoe isplaced in the machine. Upon starting the machine, the needle and awl aremoved with relation to each other in the line of feed, as indicated inFigure 15; the awl is advanced through the work, as indicated in Figure16; the awl is then retracted and the needle ad- 40 vanced to theposition indicated in Figure 1'7;

the thread finger is actuated to form a bight of thread between theneedle and the gripping jaws, and the needle is retracted to theposition indicated in Figure 18, drawing a loop of thread 45 through thework. During these operations, the

gripping jaws retain their grip on the welt and thread until the needleis nearing the end of its retracting movement, at which time the jawsare actuated to release the welt and thread, and are moved rearwardly totheir original position away from the shoe. The end of the threadentering into the new seam is held, during the action of-the threadfinger and looper in forming the first stitch, and is released in timeto permit the free end of thread to be drawn close to the surface of thewelt. The threadin the first stitch is thus drawn tightly into place andso short a length of thread is left projecting from the seam that noseparate thread trimming op ation is required in completing the shoe.

I the illustrated machine, the operation of 'fthe welt and threadgripping and cutting mechanism 'iscOntrolledby means of two stop armswhich arearranged to engage a latch 92 (see Fig. 30) mountedupon theroll carryingring 38 of the Horton clutch which is included in theconnections for actuating the welt and thread grip-v ping and severingdevices. One of these stop arms, indicated at 94, upon engagement withthe latch 92, acts to stop the welt and thread utting and grippingdevices with the gripping jaws in retracted position away from the shoeand, upon releasing the latch 92, acts to throw said mechanism intooperation to cause the jaws and knife to be advanced towards the shoe.The

other stop arm, indicated at 96, upon engaging the latch 92, acts tostop the welt and thread gripping and cutting mechanism with thegripping jaws in gripping engagementwith the welt and thread, and uponreleasing the latch, acts to throw said mechanism again into operation.The stop arm 94 is actuated by the operator to release the latch 92 atthe completion of the sewing operation. The arm 96 is actuatedautomatically from a cam on the cam shaft of the machine during thefirst stitch forming cycle in sewing a new shoe.

In the illustrated machine, the stop arm 94 is actuated by the operatorby moving the shoe slightly so as to draw welt through the welt guideand exert a pull on the welt. The mechanism through which the stop arm94 is actuated comprises a welt measuring mechanism for limiting theamount of welt drawn through the welt guide, which mechanism, except forthe construction by which the welt gripper of said mechanism isactuated, is the same in all essential particulars as that disclosed inapplicants prior Patent No. 1,971,575. This welt measuring mechanismcomprises a drum 98 (see Figs. 1 and 2) over which the welt passes onits way to the welt guide and. a welt gripping jaw I mounted on the drumwhich as the machine comes to rest, is actuated to grip the welt againstthe drum. While the welt is thus gripped, a pull on the welt serves torotate the drum, and this rotary movement acts to move the stop arm 94out of engagement with the latch 92 through a rod I02 connecting thedrum with an arm I04 fast on a rock shaft I06 to which the stop arm 94is secured. A spring I08 connected to an arm secured to the rock shaftI06 serves to rock the shaft and return the stop arm 94 into stoppingposition. To return the stop arm positively to stopping position incase, for any reason, the spring I08 fails to act, the pin III] whichconnects the eccentric strap 40 with the gear segment 42 is arranged toproject into a slot H2 in the stop arm 94 and engage the inner end ofthe slot.

Th cam for automatically actuating the stop arm 95 is in the form of acam slot H4 in the driven member 22 of the slow speed clutch (see Figs.3 and 30). This cam slot is engaged by a follower on an arm H6 securedto a rock shaft H8. The stop arm 96 is mounted upon the rock shaft II8so as to be moved into and out of the path of the latch 92 of the Hortonclutch when the shaft is rocked.

As has been stated, the stop arm 96, upon engagement with the latch 92,stops the-welt and thread cutting and gripping mechanism with thegripping jaws in gripping engagement with the welt and thread. To permitthe stop arm to be moved by the operator so as to throw the thread andwelt cutting and gripping mechanism into operation, and move thegripping jaws and knife to their retracted pos tion while the machine isat rest, the stop arm is mounted to turn freely on the shaft H8 and isprovided with a shoulder I29 which is pressed against an arm I22 fast onthe shaft by means of a spring I24 acting upon a downwardly projectingarm I26 of the stop arm. This arrangement permits the stop arm 96 to bemoved out of the path of the latch 92 independently of the shaft I I8.For so moving the arm, a manually operable shaft I28 is mounted in themachine frame and is provided at its flanged inner end with aneccentrically arranged pin I30 which projects beneath the arm I29 of thestop arm. A'handle I32 (see Fig. 31) on the end of the shaft outside ofthe machine frame is arranged in a position to be convenientlyaccessible by the operator.

i 'The machines disclosed in applicant's. prior Patents Nos. 1,971,575and 2,041,945 are provided with stitch forming and work feeding devicesconstructed and arranged to feed the welt with the shoe during theformation of the initial stitches, so that the welt does not becomedisplaced by movements of the shoe not imparted to the welt and,consequently, in these machines there is no necessity for stopping thewelt gripping devices in engagement with the welt, but

the welt grippers are retracted immediately upon the'severing of thewelt. To enable the welt gripping jaws of the illustrated machine to beoperated either as in the machines of the patents referred to or so asto remain in engagement 9 with the welt, the operable shaft I28 isarranged to be retained either in the position in which the shoulder Iis held yieldingly in contact with the arm I22 on the rock shaft H8 oralternatively in the position in which the shoulder I20 is held out ofengagement with the arm l22.. In the first case, the stop arm 90 stopsthe welt and thread gripping and severing mechanismwith the grippers inengagement with the welt and thread, and is actuated by the cam on thecam shaft to throw the mechanism into operation and,

in the second case, the stop arm 96 is held permanently out of the pathof the latch 92 and has no effect on the operation of the welt andthread gripping and severing mechanism. When the machine is operatedwith the stop arm 95 permanently in its retracted position, the machinewill preferably be provided with the welt grip- .ping jaws illustratedin Patent No. 2,041,945 so as to avoid severing the threadsimultaneously, 40 with the severing of thewelt. In the constructionshown (see particularly Figures 31 and 32),

the shaft I28 is locked in either position by means of a spring pressedretaining bolt I34 mounted in the machine frame and arranged to 5 engagediametrically opposite recesses in the flanged inner end of the shaft.

The improved construction and arrangement of parts for actuating thewelt gripper I00 of the welt measuring mechanism comprises connectionsactuated, on stopping the machine, from the stop arm 46 and follower 48(see Figs. 2, 3, 4 and 34). These connections comprise a lever I36pivotally mounted in the cam disk 49 at one side of the slot 50 with itsinner free end in po- 55 sition to be pressed inwardly towards thecenter of the cam disk by the follower 48 as the follower reaches theinner end of the slot. The lever I36 engages the outer end of a springpressed plunger I38, the inner end of which 60 bears against one edge ofa plate I40 pivotally mounted in the cam shaft I2 and provided with anedge engaging the inner end of a rod I42 mounted in the shaft I2 inalignment 'with the axis of the shaft, the arrangement being such thatan inward movement of the plunger I38 produced by an actuation of thelever I by .the follower 48 rocks the plate I40 and moves the rod I42longitudinally. The rod I42 projects be-. yond the end of the shaft I2and engages a le- 7 ver I44 which is pivotally mounted at its rear endon the machine frame and extends horizontally forward into contactwith aspring pressed plunger I46 which is mounted in the drum 98,

and at its outer end engages an arm of the welt 75 gripper I00.

n 424:! otthmustrated machine is substantially the same as the threadtension mechanism of applicant's prior patents (see Figs. 1, 2, and'33)and comprises a wheel I48 over which the thread passes, a drum I50 faston the shaft of the wheel, and a brake shoe I52 engaging the drumpivotally mounted Y upon a spring pressed bell crank I54. Also, as inthe machines of applicant's prior patents, a tension releasing rod I58is provided, the upper end of which bears against the bell crank I54 andthe lower end of which has a pin and slot engagement with an arm I58fast on the hub of the stop arm 43, the arrangement being such that therod IE6 is actuated dining the reverse rotation of the cam shaft instopping the machine to release the tension on the thread. In thepatented machines the rod I50 is actuated to apply the thread tensionduring the first portion of the forward rotation of the cam shaft instarting a new seam. In the illustrated machine, this mode of operationis undesirable, as in such case the resistance oflered by the threadtension during the action of the thread finger, looper and takeup,during the formation of the first stitch, might be sufficient to causethe end of the thread tobe pulled from the grip of the welt and threadgripping jaws. Accordingly, in the illustrated machine, means areprovided for holding the tension released until the latter part of thefirst stitch forming cycle, at which time the tension is applied. Asillustrated (see particularly Fig. 33) these means comprise a fixedabutment or latch I00 arranged to engage the shoulder I62 of a recessformed in the rod I 56, a leaf spring I64 acting to press the upper endof the rod towards the latch I60, and a pin I66 on the hub of a camactuated lever, I08, which during the latter part of the first stitchforming cycle, engages the surface of a projection I70 on'the rod andmoves the rod to release itfrom the latch I60.

The means for feeding the work continuously, with which the illustratedmachine has been provided, are best illustrated in Fig. 1, and in Figs.51:0 12 inclusive. The ,work is fed by the cooperative action of theneedle 2, the awl 4, and a channel guide indicated at I12. The channelguide remains continuously in engagement with the bottom of the channel,having no movement except a movement back and forth in the line of feed.The needle and awl move. towards and from each other into and out ofengagement with the work, and also have a. movement relatively to eachother back and forth in the line of feed, one or the other of theseinstruments, during the sewing of a seam, being in engagement with thework. During the movements of the needle and awl back and forth in theline of feed, the channel guide moves with the needle, alwaysmaintaining the samei'lxed position with relation to the needle in theline of feed. The means for supporting the needle and awl in the machinecomprise two carriages in the form of somewhat rectangular blocks, thecarriage for the needle being indicated at I14, and the carriage for theawl being indicated at "6 (see particularly Figs. 6, 7, 8 and 9., Thecarriages I14 and I16 are mounted to slide back and forth in the line offeed on a guide rod I18 which passes through perforations in the upperends of the carriages. Near their lower ends, the carriages are guidedin slots formed in the frame of the machine, the slots being providedwith vertical guiding surfaces extending parallel with the axis aboutwhich the needle and awl turn'in piercing the work and eng incorresponding surfaces on the carriages. The needle and awl are clampedrespectively on needle and awl segments I88 and I82 and these segmentsare mounted in the lower ends of the carriages I14 and I16 so as to moveabout the same axis.

I84 which extends from the lower end of the carriage towards the awlcarriage. The channel guide I12 is secured to the bearing block I84 bymeans of a clamping bolt I86 in position to engage the channel of a shoesole close to that side of the needle towards which the shoe is fed. 7To insure the proper location of the channel guide without anyparticular care on the part of the operator, the bearing block I84 isprovided with a projecting stud I88 which is square in crosssection andwhich is received in a correspondingly shaped hole in the carriage I14.The bearing block I84 is held rigidly secured to the carriage I15 bymeans of a clamping bolt I88 threaded into the carriage and engaging thestud I88. A needle guide, indicated at I92, is also mounted on thebearing block I84 between a shoulder formed on the block and the hub ofthe needle segment. This needle guide is actuated from the needlesegment through connections similar to those disclosed in applicantsprior patents comprising a locking ball indicated at I84 mounted in theneedle guide and arranged to engage cooperating recesses in the needlesegment and in the surface of the shoulder on the bearing block. ,Tomount the awl segment in the awl carriage I16 it is provided on oppositesides with bearing studs, one of which is received in a perforation inthe bearing block I84 for the needle and the other of which is mountedto turn in a bearing in the lower end of the carriage I16. The awlsegment is held from movement with relation to the carriage I16 in theline of feed by a shoulder on the segment engaging one end of thebearing and a washer I96 engaging the other end of the bearing, whichwasher is secured to the end of the bearing stud by means of a clampingscrew I88.

Reciprocating movements back and forth in the line of feed are impartedto the needle and awl carriages I14 and I18 by means of levers 288 and282, a separate lever being provided for each carriage and each leverbeing actuated from a cam groove in the cam disk 284, on the cam shaftI2 of the machine. Each lever at its forward end is rounded off andengages a. vertical slot in its corresponding carriage, a close fitbeing secured by means of an adjusting screw 286 arranged to engage oneside of the rounded end of the lever and press the other side againstthe opposite side of the slot. a

The manner in which the needle, awl and 0 channel guide act to impart acontinuous feeding movement to the work will be apparent from aninspection of Figures 19, 20 and 21 which shows the relative position ofthese parts at different points in a stitch forming cycle while themachine is sewing a seam. In Figure 19, the needle has been retractedfrom the work and the awl has pierced the work, the parts being in thesame position as indicated in Figure 16 which illustrates the operationduring the first cycle on starting the machine. With the parts in thepositionillustrated in Figure 19, the awl is feeding the work and theneedle and channel guide are being backfed. In Figure 20 the needle hasadvanced through the work and the awl has been retracted and backfedwhile the needle is The needle segment I88 is-mounted in the carriageI14 on a bearing block in the work. with the parts in this position thework is being fed by the needle and channel guide, and the awl is aboutto enter the work. In Figure 21 the awl has entered the work and isfeeding the work' while the needle has been withdrawn and, together withthe channel guide, is being backfed.

To permit the shoe to be readily removed from the machine at thecompletion of the sewing operation, and also to permit a new shoe to beplaced in position, means are provided which, upon stopping the machinewith the needle retracted from the work, act to impart additionalretracting movement to the'awl so as to separate the awl from theneedle. This brings the needle and awl into the positions indicated inFigure 14, in which position they remain until the machine has againstarted. The mechanism for imparting an additional retracting movementto the awl, upon stopping the machine, is best shown in Figures 3, 36and 37. The awl actuating cam lever is indicated at 288 and the camgroove for actuating the lever is indicated at 2I8, this cam groovebeing formed in one face of the spiral gear I8 through which the camshaft is driven. The lever 288 is provided with a follower 2I2 which,during the rotation of the cam shaft in a forward direction, asindicated by the arrow in Figure 3'1, remains in engagement with the camgroove ZIIl.

lower 2I2 enters the cam slot 2I4 and, as the.

machine comes to rest, the lever'288 is actuated to retract the awl.The-entrance of the follower The cam groove H8 is shaped to give thedesired work piercing and retracting movements to the awl during thesewing of the 2I2 into the slot 2 during the reverse rotation of the camshaft is insured by the provision of a switch cam 2I6 pivotally mountedon the gear I8 and normally held in a position to close the slot H4 andform a portion o'f one wall of the cam groove 2I8. During the reverserotation of the cam shaft the switch cam is moved to the positionindicated in Figure 37, in which position it extends across the camgroove 2I8 and opens the slot 2I4 for the entrance of the follower 2I2.For so actuating the switch cam 2I6, a lever M8 is mounted on theopposite face of the gear I8 from theswitch cam and is provided with apin 228 extending through an opening in the gear into engagement with aslot in the switch cam; During the forward rotation of the cam shaft insewing a seam, the switch cam is held in a position closing the slot 2I4by means of a spring 222 acting on the lever 2I8. Upon reverse rotationof the cam shaft, the lever 2I8 is actuated to move the switch cam fromits closed position by pin 224 and causes an actuation of the lever 2l8to move the switch cam 2l6 to its open position before the cam shaftcomes to rest.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated; and amachine embodying theseveral features of the invention having beenspecifically described, what is claimed is:

1. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming devices, a welt guide,

l0 welt gripping jaws movable towards the shoe at the completion of theseam, said stitch forming devices, welt guide and gripping jaws beingarranged to cause both the welt and the thread, when the jaws are somoved, before substantial displacement of the shoe to pass between thejaws and the thread to pass across the welt, and means for actuating thejaws to clamp the welt between them and to clamp the thread against thewelt and for retaining the jaws in clamping position until the machineis again started into operation.

2. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a welt guide,

at the completion of the seam for actuating the gripping devices to gripthe welt and thread before substantial displacement of the shoe, and forretaining the devices in gripping position until the machine is againstarted into operation, a welt severing knife, and means for actuatingthe knife to sever both the welt and thread.

3. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a welt guide, welt gripping jaws movable towards the shoe at 35the completion of the seam, said stitch forming devices, welt guide andgripping jaws being arranged to cause both the welt and the thread, whenthe jaws are so moved, before substantial displacement of the shoe topass between the jaws 40 and the thread to pass across the welt, a weltsevering knife, and means for actuatng the jaws to clamp the weltbetween them and to clamp the thread against the welt and for re tainingthe jaws in clamping position until the 45 machine is again started intooperation, and means for actuating the knife to sever the clamped threadand welt.

4. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a welt guide, 50 and means operable at the completion of theseam and before substantial displacement of the shoe to sever the weltand to clamp the thread against-the welt and retainthe thread in clampedposition until the machine is again started into 55 operation.

' 5. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices, a welt guide, welt cutting and gripping devicescomprising welt gripping jaws movable towards and from the shoe to gripand release the welt, mechanism for actuating said devices, adjustablemeans for controlling the operation of said mechanism acting under oneadjustment to cause said mechanism, when thrown into operation, toadvance and re- 65 tract the jaws and, under another adjustment, to

cause said mechanism, when thrown into operation, to advance the jawsand retain them in gripping engagement with the welt, and when againthrown into operation, to retract the jaws.

6. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a welt guide, welt cutting and gripping devices comprising weltgripping jaws movable towards and from the shoe to grip and release thewelt, mechanism for actu- 75 ating said devices, comprising a clutch, aclutch welt and thread gripping devices, means operable controlling armarranged to be actuated by the operator on stopping the machine actingto throw said mechanism into operation and to stop said combination,stitch forming devices, a welt guide,

'welt cutting and gripping devices comprising welt gripping jaws movabletowards and from the shoe to grip and release the welt, mechanism foractuating said devices, comprising a clutch, a clutch controlling armarranged to be actuated by the operator on stopping the machine actingto throw said mechanism into operation and to stop said mechanism withthe gripping jaws in retracted position away from the shoe, a clutchcontrolling arm arranged to be actuated by the cam shaft on stopping themachine acting to throw said mechanism into operation and to stop saidmechanism with the jaws in gripping engagement with the welt, and meansfor rendering said last mentioned 'control arm inoperative to controlthe clutch.

8. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming and Work feeding devices, a cam shaft andsuitable connections for actuating said devices, a welt guide, weltmeasuring mechanism for gripping and limiting the movement of the weltupon removal of the work, means operating on stopping the machine toimpart a reverse movement to the cam shaft, means for'limiting thereverse movement of the cam shaft comprising a cam on the cam shaftprovided with a slot, a follower to engage the slot on reverse rotationof the cam shaft, and connections actuated from the cam follower uponreversal of the cam shaft to cause the welt measuring mechanism to gripthe ,welt.

9. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingand work feeding devics, a cam shaft and suitable connections foractuating said devices, Welt cutting and gripping devices comprisingwelt gripping jaws movable "towards and from the shoe to grip andrelease the welt, mechanism for actuating said devices, mechanism forgripping and limiting the movement of the welt upon removal of the work,connections from the welt measuring mechanism for throwing intooperation the mechanism for actuating the welt gripping and cuttingdevices upon removal of the work, means operating on stopping themachine to impart a reverse movement to the cam shaft, means forlimiting the reverse movement of the cam shaft comprising a cam on thecam shaft provided with a slot and a follower to engage the slot onreverse rotation of the cam shaft, and connections actuated from the camfollower on reversal of the cam shaft to cause the welt measuringmechanism to grip the welt.

10. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingand work feeding devices, a cam shaft and suitable connections foractuating said devices, a weltguide, welt measuring mechanism forgripping and limiting the movement of the welt upon removal of the work,

a rod mounted to move lengthwise of the cam welt, and means foractuating the rod on stopping the machine.

11. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices, a. cam shaft andsuitable connections for actuating said devices, a welt guide, weltmeasuring mechanism for gripping and limiting the movement of the weltupon removal of the work, a rod mounted to move lengthwise of the camshaft, connections actuated by the rod for causing the welt measuringmechanism to grip the welt, and means actuated from the cam shaft onstopping the machine for moving the rod.

12. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, a welt guide, welt cutting and gripping devices comprising weltgripping jaws movable towards and from the shoe to grip and release thewelt, a welt severing knife movable transversely across the welt tosever the welt while gripped by the jaws, means for acturier for thejaws upon which at least one of said jaws is pivotally mounted, ayielding support for the pivot of the pivotally mounted jaw permittingbodily movement of the jaw to accommodate welts of different thickness,and means for actuating the carrier to move the jaws towards and fromthe shoe and for actuating the jaws to grip and release the Welt.

ALFRED R. MORRILL.

